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Gift presents for newborn: Baby Sleep Sack, kids craft ideas

Sewing  |  August 16th 2011  |  0 Comment

Gift presents: Baby Sleep Sack,

kids craft ideas

Baby Sleep Sack Debut
(more photos and details about the features)
Thanks to everyone who showed interest in this tutorial and pattern, I really appreciate your comments and wish more people didn’t have “no reply” on their blogger settings so I could respond to your comments.
I hope to see some of these in the flickr group!  Make it worth my while people!
Kind of kidding, I know it’s a pain to take a photo and upload it to share, but I’d really love to see your ideas and twists on this pattern and to share the ideas and variety with everyone else.  It’s probably more exciting to see other people using the idea than just making it for myself.
Also, this tutorial is for personal use only. I ask that you respect my design and the time to put this pattern/ tutorial together and only use the sleep sacks you will make for yourself, family and friends, not for commercial use/ profit. Thanks!
Anyway, today you’ll be seeing this green/ pink/ owl sleep sack coming together.
So to start off, print off your pattern pieces here.

Make sure your printer is set to NO SCALING before you print.  It’s only 4 pages.


Cut Out Pieces
The printed patterns have the dimensions for your flannel sack, cuffs, and ribbing.  The rest have pattern pieces.  I did draw a little diagram of getting 4 sleep sacks with 1.5 yards of flannel on the pattern too.
So for the knit pieces, I use knit t-shirts as shown.  I cut off the bottom hem and use the shirt side seam on the back piece rather than using a fold.

You could obviously buy ribbing yardage, but I use more t-shirts, again cutting off the bottom hem, then cutting strips for ribbing.

As far as how thick you want your ribbing, it’s up to you.  For this sack I chose to use narrow ribbing for the wrists of the sleeves, cutting them 3/4″ wide.
I wanted the neck ribbing a little wider so I kept it 1″.  It wasn’t quite long enough, so I had to sew 2 strips together.

You’ll want to iron all your ribbing in half.  As you press, it helps to lift the iron along the strip rather than sliding it.

You’ll need to make sure you have all the sleeve pieces, 4 total but 2 each way as shown.

Make Top
1. Take your 2 front pieces and lay them right side up and crossed as it will be sewn.

2. Shoulder Seams
Take your back piece and lay it face down on your cross front pieces.  At this point right sides are together.  Sew both shoulder seams with 1/2″ seam allowance.

3. Sew Ribbing around Neckline 
Take your 1″ ribbing and wrap the fold around the edge of the fabric, pinning it in place.  Make sure the front piece goes right in the crease of the fold you ironed.

Pin around the entire neck.  I open the shoulder seam allowances flat when I pin the ribbing across the shoulders.

Next you top-stitch all the ribbing to the shirt top.  I use a walking foot to minimize the stretch of the ribbing.  So if you have a walking foot, good time to bust it out.  If you don’t, it doesn’t matter, I made the first two with my regular presser foot.  If you find it is stretching the knit as you sew, try increasing your thread tension.  I sew right along the edge of the ribbing.

4. Side Seams
Decide which side you want in front.  I don’t think it really matters whether right or left crosses in front. I made the decision on which side had better sewing on the ribbing, or which side that didn’t have a stain, etc.  I just chose the better looking front piece and put that in front.
Next just sew the 2 front pieces together on the sides.

Next fold the back piece on top of the front, right sides together, and sew the side seams.

Sew Sleeves
From your 4 sleeve pieces, take 2 for the cuffs that are opposite from eachother as shown.  You take your knit cuff pieces and fold them in half vertically so the fold is at the top and the raw edges line up with the bottom of the sleeve.

1. Baste Cuffs
Sew the sides of each cuff to sleeve on each side.

2. Sew long shoulder sleeve seam
Grab the opposite sleeve pieces and put them right sides together.  Sew the seam with the long (shoulder) side

3. Wrist Ribbing
Open your sleeves and pin the narrow ribbing along the bottom on both sleeves.  Top-stitch the ribbing on just like the neck.

4. Sew Short Armpit Sleeve Seam
Fold the sleeve back to right sides together and sew the short side (armpit) seam. I usually start at the ribbing to make sure that is lined up, then end at the armpit that will be sewn into the shirt, so if it’s uneven, you can’t tell.

5. Pin Sleeves into Bodice
This is important to make sure your cuffs are on the back of the sleeves. The first one I made I messed up so one cuff is on the back, and the other is on the front.  It will still work, but if you’re giving it as a gift it should probably match.

So make sure your bodice is inside out, with the sleeves right side out.  You’ll put the sleeves into the arm holes of the bodice, making sure the cuffs are touching the back of the shirt and that your long seam of the sleeve is up to the shoulder, the short seam down to armpit/ side seam. 

Pin the seams at shoulder and armpit to match sleeve up to bodice.  Sew around sleeves.
Finish Bottom of Sack
1. Make Sack
Take your sack piece and fold it in half right sides together. Sew the seam along the 15″ long edges to make a tube.  This seam will the back seam of the sack.

2. Sew Bodice to Sack
Using pins, mark the quarters of the sack top.  The fold opposite the seam is your front, then match up the front and back seam and the side folds are the marks for your side seams.

Make sure your sack bottom is inside out, with the bodice right side out.  Put the head of the bodice in the sack top.

Match up the side seams of the sack and bodice, and pin the bodice to the sack all the way around.  You may have to stretch your flannel sack a little as you sew to make it all even.
Sew 1/2″ seam allowance around the top.

3. Press or Top Stitch Waist Seam
You can iron the seam flat to look nice, but I also like to top-stitch it to help it lay flat.  Putting the open neck on the arm of my sewing machine, I fold the seam allowance down toward the feet and top-stitch 1/4″ on the sack all the way around.

4. Make Elastic Casing
On the bottom of the sack, you can zig-zag or serge the edge for a single fold casing.
If you don’t have a serger, you could also iron 1/4 up around the whole bottom to end up with double fold casing.
Then either way you finished the edge, fold/ press fabric up 1/2″.  Sew around the circle of the sack bottom, but leave about 2″ unsewn to have a hole to lace elastic through.

5. Insert Elastic
I use a smaller safety pin in one end of the elastic and thread it through the hole I left in the casing and all the way around, coming out the other end of the casing.

Once both elastic ends are laced through casing, sew them together.  Then just stretch the elastic back in the casing hole and finish sewing that last 2″ hole shut.

Add your sleep sacks to our flickr group!
Now you can get creative with different colors and make a whole set!