Gift presents: Boutique Bow

The Boutique Bow design and photos were created by Jessa Bailey of Bows by Jessa. Credit where credit is due! Many thanks to Jessa for helping to enlarge our collection of FREE hair bow instructions. Make sure to check out her Video Tutorials also!

Materials

~Ribbon (cut and sealed to length needed)
~Hot Glue Gun
~Stick Pins
~Alligator Clip or French Barrette
~Threaded Needle
~Hot Glue Gun
~3.5″ piece of 3/8″ ribbon (trimmed and heat sealed)

The Boutique Bow design and photos were created by Jessa Bailey of Bows by Jessa. Credit where credit is due! Many thanks to Jessa for helping to enlarge our collection of FREE hair bow instructions. Make sure to check out her Video Tutorials also!

Materials

~Ribbon (cut and sealed to length needed)
~Hot Glue Gun
~Stick Pins
~Alligator Clip or French Barrette
~Threaded Needle
~Hot Glue Gun
~3.5″ piece of 3/8″ ribbon (trimmed and heat sealed)

Step-by-Step Instructions

 

Ribbon Formula: Cut your ribbon
Itty Bitty Bow (2″ ~ 3″ bow) cut 3/8″ ribbon to 14-16″ (the 14″ will make a 2″ bow and 16″ will make a 3″ bow)
Small Bow (2.5 ~ 3″bow) cut 7/8″ ribbon to 20″
Medium Bow (4″ bow) cut 7/8″ ribbon to 29″ or 1.5″ ribbon to 32″
Large Bow (5″ bow) cut 1.5″ ribbon to 35″To get started cut your ribbon and make sure to trim and heat seal the ends! This example is for a Small Bow.

:::

Start by folding one end of your ribbon over to the 3.5″ mark.
a. For the medium bow overlap your first fold to 5″ mark.
b. For the large bow overlap your first fold to 6″ mark.
c. For the itty bittys overlap your first fold to 3″ mark for the 16″ piece and first fold should be at the 2.5″ mark for the 14″ piece.

Then fold ribbon back over at the 4″ mark.
a. For the medium bow fold back over at the 6″ mark.
b. For the large bow fold back over at the 7″ mark.
c. For the itty bittys fold back over at the 3.5″ mark for the 16″ piece and first fold should be at the 3″ mark for the 14″ piece.

Continue wrapping the ribbon around into a big loop, when this step is complete the end of your ribbon should be sitting on top.

Push the stick pin through the very mark of your loops.

Now separate the loops; you should see 3 layers on each side of the stick pin, (top layer, middle layer, and inside layer). You will then pull the top layer and the inside layer one way and the middle layer the opposite. Do the same on the opposite side. You should start to see an “X” shape.

Continue to spread the loops until you get the shape you want.

Take your threaded needle and weave it in and out from the bottom to the top directly through the center.

Remove the stick pin and pull the thread through as tight as you can. This will form your pinched look (humps or ridges) in the center. Wrap the thread around a couple of times and tie the thread off on the bottom side of the bow.

Make sure your bow looks centered. Now you can complete the bow with the small piece of 3/8″ ribbon. You can tie this completely into a knot or just make a peak. (The peak method is what I used in the example pictured.)

Hot glue your center piece to the top of the bow.

Line your clip…see pictures.

Hot glue your clip choice to the back of your bow.

Wrap the ends of the center piece around to the back of the clip, glue securely into place.

Shape bow to your specifications, and you are DONE!

girlythingsbows.com

 

ZIPPERED CLUTCH BAG

‘Lined Zippered Clutch Bag’

A simple clutch bag is probably everyone’s favourite handbag. And for good reason … it is so classic in style and never looks dated. Mostly though, we love how this minimalist look can be made quick and easily, using the simple lined zippered bag technique, in different sizes and for different occasions, from coin purse to cosmetic bag or hand clutch to full-sized portfolio.

Dimensions: approximately 12″ wide x 11″ high x 1″ deep

                                                    [30cm W x 28cm H x 2.5cm D]

Construction Method: Turned finish – this method may be recognized by noting the lack of machine-stitching that is visible at points of assembly on the exterior side of the bag. This is possible by placing the material, or parts, face to face, machining and turning right-side out. It is the most commonly used assembly process.

Material Used: 100% cotton tapestry; and 100% cotton pocketing fabric

You will need:

1. 1 upholstery square*, 25″ X 25″ (64cm X 64cm)
2. 1/3 yd. (30 cm) of pocket lining fabric, 54″ wide (138 cm)
3. 1/3 yd. (30 cm) of fusible interfacing, 44″ wide (112cm)
4. 1 closed luggage zipper (length equal to desired width of bag)
5. coordinating thread
6. kraft paper

PATTERN

The draft and formation of this clutch bag is based upon a simple flat grid, which fits into a square or rectangle, of which the size depends on the desired length of the zipper opening. There are no seam allowances added to the side seams of the pattern pieces. The length of the pattern (bag height) is whatever you desire as a finished length plus seam allowance. The zipper length used in the prototype sample is 12″ [30 cm] long.

The formation of the bag’s interior lining is the same as the exterior with a divider insert. The divider piece should be cut out as wide as the exterior of the bag and twice the height of the bag less 1-inch (25 mm), allowing it to be folded on itself to form a divided compartment for the interior.

Seam allowance (1/2″ – 12 mm) is included in all drafts.

CUTTING

Bag Exterior – cut 2X upholstery fabric

Bag Interior – cut 2X lining fabric

Lining divider – cut 1X lining fabric

ASSEMBLY

1. Iron fusible interfacing to back of upholstery fabric, following manufacturer’s directions. (Design Note: if your fashion fabric has a textured or raised surface, baste a non-fusible interface to the fabric as heat and pressure of application will destroy the beauty of the fabric’s surface.)

2. Fold the lining divider fabric in half, with wrong sides of fabric facing together. Pin/baste divider to one of the lining pieces, with the folded edge about 1-inch [25 mm] from the top edge of the lining piece. Trim any excess fabric away from the lining’s outer edges, if necessary. Set aside.

3. Attach zipper. Place the piece of lining with the basted divider panel fabric FACE UP, then the zipper and then the exterior fabric FACE SIDE DOWN. Line up the three layers and pin/baste together. Using a zipper foot, sew across the top along the edge of your zipper sandwich and the zipper teeth.

Repeat this step for the other side (edge) of the zipper. You can edgestitch the lining sections along the zipper tape now, if you wish (optional).

4. Layer both pieces of lining to one side and both pieces of the exterior fabric to the other side of the zipper, with FACE SIDES together (note: remember to open the zipper at least halfway so that the bag can be turned right-side-out once the seams are stitched). The zipper teeth should be pinned toward the lining side. Lay the zipper ends on top of each other with teeth facing the lining side and pin.

5. Sew all the way around the perimeter edge. Ensure you sew on the outside of the metal parts on each end of the zipper, this will be easy to do if you cut your fabric the total length of the zipper tape. Leave an opening at the bottom of the lining side. Round the bottom corners OR miter the corners, as desired. Press seams open.

Click on illustrations to magnify.

6. Turn bag right-side-out. Stitch opening on lining closed by machine or slipstitch by hand.

7. Drop the lining portion inside the cavity of the bag to complete.

source: www.girlythingsbows.com