Gift Card Holders : paper crafts
The basic gift card holder in my last post is just a jumping off point for more interesting designs. Since scalloped borders and punched scallops are so popular now, I decided to do some more versions of this card. Once again, I did each version in both George and Plantin Schoolbook so all bug owners can use one of them!
First, I modified the George card holder by adding a border of scallops – to do this I welded a series of 1/2 inch circles to the edges of the card. Here is a screen shot of a corner of this design
For the George version I was able to keep the original dimensions of the card and simply add the circles at half inch intervals along the top and bottom of the length of the card. I added six scallops at each end for the front and back of the card, leaving the center section which folds in to make the actual sleeve for the card plain. In order to make the scallops even I added an additional 1/4 inch to the height of the card to make it 4 1/2 inches tall and placed 9 scallops on the front and back edges of the card.
For the Plantin Schoolbook version, I ran into a problem. The “cuttable” area of the Expression mat is slightly narrower than the baby bug mat and a card 11.5 inches wide, centered on the mat would not fit because the starting point of the cuts on this mat is slightly more than 1/4 inch into the mat. To keep the math simple, I made the base card 10.75 inches instead of 11 inches, re-centered the card and welded the circles to the edges. Here is a screen shot of this design – you can see the slightly larger amount of space where the cuts will not be made if you compare the two screen shots.
For the scallops with holes, I did a “save as” of the scalloped design and then proceeded with the tedious job of adding 1/8 inch circles for the holes. Here is a screen shot of the Plantin Schoolbook version
To get this type of design to come out evenly requires a lot of time and patience and attention to the Shape Properties box to be sure that the elements are in exactly the same position on the X or Y axis. It is also extremely tricky to get an exact dimension on elements that are less than one half inch – if you type in a smaller dimension the program defaults back to .5 so you have to use the “handle” in the lower right corner and watch the numbers until you get the exact dimension you need. Once I get this to work, I immediately copy and paste a few extras somewhere on my page so that I will be able to use them as backups.
After cutting the Plantin Schoolbook version – the scoring is a bit tricky – the easiest thing to do is to line up the spot where the scallops stop on the 3 1/2 inch mark on your Scor Pal (or score 3 and 1/4 inches from the edge of the card. In the photo below you can see that the left side of the card is shifted to the 1/4 inch mark and the scoring is done at the 3 1/2 inch mark even though the actual finished dimension is 3 1/4 inches.
If you are using a Scor Pal (highly recommended) you should then turn you card around and use the same method to score the opposite side. After this is done, FLIP the paper over and place it on the board so that the six inch mark lines up with the center of the center opening. To check this, you can use a centering ruler as shown in the next photo and make sure the the distance from the “0″ to the first score lines is equal (in this case is should be 2 and 3/8 inches on each side).
When you make the center fold, be sure that your scallops are aligned
Flipping the paper for the center score will insure that the folds for your peaks and valleys are going in opposite directions, resulting in a correctly folded card.
If you want a band around the card (like the one in my last post) you can cut a one inch by seven and 1/2 inch strip of paper and simply fold it around the card (use your bone folder to make the crease sharp) and add adhesive to stick it together.
The George version is a bit simpler to score. Since the size of the card did not have to be adjusted, you simply place the card at the 1/4 inch mark on the left and score at the 3 1/2 and 8 1/2 inch marks. Then flip the paper over, line up the first scores with those measurements and score the small bars on the six inch mark
To prevent having the inner section of the card show through on the version with holes in the scallops, I needed to make an additional cut of a thin rectangle to trim the inner height just enough to hide it from the outside of the card, Here is a photo of the card on the mat after cutting which shows that extra cut before the card is removed.
Here you can see the piece more clearly after the card was removed
Here is the fully folded card – you can see that the center section does not cover the holes when the card closes.
A word to the wise – the George version will only cut properly on the baby bug. I normally use my Expression and so when I was testing this cut I just loaded the paper as usual – much to my annoyance I discovered that the leading edge of scallops did not cut completely and I had to hand trim them as you can see below
This raggedy result was not pleasing and I nearly started to completely redo the file but then I decided to just test it on the baby bug and…it cuts perfectly – here it is all on the mat
and here it is after the edges have been lifted off the mat -that very slight difference in “cuttable” area is significant in this case!
The holes are 1/8 inch so you can easily add eyelets to reinforce them and then use a ribbon to tied the card shot as I did in the card at the start of this post (so far back that I’ll add the photo again here!)
These files each have several pages – to cut the gift cards holders first cut page one and then DO NOT REMOVE the mat but simply click on page two and cut again (this page creates the slot for the card and trims the extra bits for the scallops with holes version.
If you just cut the first page you have the option of making a flat card with or without a contrasting insert. There is a third page for cutting the insert on the Cricut or you can simply measure and cut with a paper trimmer. I made the file inserts about 1/4 inch smaller than the base but you could vary the width – here are a couple of photos to show you how this could look (I used highly contrasting paper just so you could see it better)
The front scalloped pieces will overlap when folded.
This card could be made horizontally